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                | 2056: St Mary 
                  Abbots, Kensington, London | 
             
            
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                Photo: John Salmon | 
             
            
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                Mystery Worshipper: 
                  Deputy Verger. 
                  The church: 
                  St Mary Abbots, Kensington, London. 
                  Denomination: 
                  Church of England, Diocese 
                  of London. 
                  The building: 
                  St Mary Abbots has, at 278 feet, the tallest spire in London. 
                  It's a Victorian Gothic landmark, built in 1872 by the pre-eminent 
                  architect of the time and place, Sir George Gilbert Scott, toward 
                  the end of his career. Sadly for him, he didn't live to see 
                  the spire, but the work was completed by his son. I approached 
                  from the southeast corner, which involves walking through a 
                  long mood-setting cloister. It stands on sacred ground – there 
                  has been a church dedicated to St Mary on this site since the 
                  13th century. This is the fourth church building, each one larger 
                  than its predecessor, and many artifacts from the previous churches 
                  are retained, including memorial plaques on the wall of a side 
                  chapel and some of the ten bells. There's a crossing in the 
                  nave, with a functional chapel in the north transept, while 
                  the south side appears less used. Behind that crossing, doors 
                  open to the cloistered walkway on the south side and a lane 
                  on the north. The west door leads to the church schoolyard, 
                  and all the doors were open on the night I was there. The nave 
                  is tall, long and narrow, with two rows of pews running the 
                  length of it, interrupted by the crossing between the doors, 
                  behind the actual crossing. A shorter set of pews in the north 
                  chapel, which is dedicated to St Paul, give a feeling of elbow 
                  room in the right place. The high windows are full of stained 
                  glass, which makes it a dim old Victorian church, but I found 
                  it more prayerful than gloomy, and there is a lot of glittering 
                  gold mosaic in the reredos. The overall effect is impressive, 
                  like a small cathedral. 
                  The church: 
                  There are at least three services every day of the week and 
                  five on Sunday, according to the newsletter, so it not only 
                  looks like a cathedral, it acts like one too. As the Mother 
                  Church of Kensington, it has strong links with several local 
                  churches and the parish includes St Philips, Earl's Court, and 
                  Christ Church Kensington. The nearby St Mary Abbots Centre has 
                  theatre, reception and meeting rooms to hire, (but the reception 
                  after the service I attended took place in the attached school 
                  hall). They run seasonal courses (Lent, Advent, etc.) and have 
                  a long-running book club. They often donate the entire collection 
                  to some charitable cause. The beneficiary of the collection 
                  from the service I attended was the United Society for the Propagation 
                  of the Gospel, and the newsletter indicated that a previous 
                  Sunday's collections (all five of them) went to the aid of the 
                  victims of the recent flood disaster in Pakistan. A glance at 
                  Google images reveals that the current Prime Minister, David 
                  Cameron, attends with his family. Princess Diana was a "member 
                  of the parish", living in nearby Kensington Palace, and 
                  St Mary Abbots held a massive memorial service for her. There 
                  is a highly rated primary school, which holds a service in the 
                  church every Thursday during term time, and four age-levels 
                  of Sunday school. Lots of young families attend the church. 
                  (Draw your own dots.) 
                  The neighbourhood: 
                  Kensington is a very "good" London address. It's rich. 
                  I mean, wealthy. No rundown or boarded up shops around here, 
                  but up-market boutiques, fashionable restaurants, expensive 
                  apartments and the ubiquitous coffee house chains. There isn't 
                  a particular abundance of pubs near the busy corner on which 
                  the church stands, strangely. Kensington Gardens, the western 
                  portion of London's Hyde Park, is a diamond ring's throw away. 
                  The Royal Albert Hall is within walking distance, as is the 
                  Holland Park Opera. It's bounded by Notting Hill, Earl's Court 
                  and Knightsbridge, so one isn't in any danger of wandering into 
                  the slums. Therefore, St Mary Abbots attracts a well-heeled 
                  congregation and as such has a bit of a reputation for exclusivity, 
                  but that might say more about the people who feel excluded than 
                  the regular worshippers. The Royal Borough of Kensington and 
                  Chelsea is the most densely populated place in Britain, and 
                  today probably hosts citizens of every nation in the world, 
                  either as residents or tourists. 
                  The cast: 
                  The Very Revd Dr John Hall, Dean of Westminster Abbey, preached. 
                  The Revd Gillean Craig, Vicar of Kensington, celebrated. There 
                  were four other clergy in attendance but I didn't get all their 
                  names and they didn't have "speaking" parts, except 
                  for the Revd Gareth Wardell, who deaconed. There were two acolytes, 
                  and an adult choir. The director of music, Mark Uglow, played 
                  the organ. 
                  The date & time: 
                  Wednesday, 8 September 2010, 7.00pm. 
                   
What was the name of the service? 
                  Solemn Eucharist of the Feast of the Nativity of The Blessed 
                  Virgin Mary. This is the church's patronal festival, and my 
                  inspiration for this report was to do a 10-year update on the 
                  MW report that was filed ten years ago on this church.
  
How full was the building? 
Maybe half full, but it was a weekday evening! All of the pews in the front half of the nave were well populated. It was nice that there wasn't one of those five-row Anglican gaps at the front. Behind the crossing, the numbers thinned out, but it was still respectable. I would say upwards of a hundred worshippers, plus the clergy and choir.
  
Did anyone welcome you personally? 
Yes, a woman welcomed me graciously and gave me the hymnbook and order of service booklet.
  
Was your pew comfortable? 
It was just a pew, with a kneeler hanging on a hook. But there was plenty of space and enough stand-sit-kneel action not to get a numb bum.
  
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere? 
The organ was playing and it was quietly reverent. People might have been talking quietly to the person beside them, or not, but there was no loud chatter or moving around meeting and greeting.
  
What were the exact opening words of the
service? 
                  The choir assembled at the back of the church. Father Gillean 
                  came to the lectern and said a few words of welcome: first to 
                  the guest preacher, whom he described as an old friend, followed 
                  by a special welcome to visitors. The choir then sang the introit 
                  motet ("Sing joyfully" – Byrd), we all sang the introit hymn 
                  as the choir and clergy processed to their places, and then 
                  the actual service began with the words: "In the name of 
                  the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit". 
                   
What books did the congregation use during the
service? 
                  A special order of service booklet and The New English Hymnal. 
                  This is the same hymnbook as they were using ten years ago, 
                  and my copy had been repaired with green duct tape – it might 
                  have been the very copy the previous Mystery Worshipper had 
                  held. 
                   
What musical instruments were played? 
                  The organ, about which I know nothing but it had an impressive 
                  set of pipes. I presume it is a good one because students from 
                  the Royal College of Music regularly give recitals in the church. 
                   
Did anything distract you? 
One member of the altar party disappeared. Vanished! I counted them in procession – there were six. When they recessed, there were five. Luckily the service was over by the time I had this crisis of self-doubt about my observational skills!
  
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what? 
                  It was high church, grand vestments, lots of candles and incense. 
                  A good many people knelt for the prayers. Father Gillean celebrated 
                  the eucharist  ad orientem and chanted the eucharistic 
                  prayer in a most majestic voice. The dean and a woman whose 
                  name I didn't get were gloriously vested in floor length copes 
                  of gold with a bit of red – not matching. Two assistant priests 
                  were in matching white and gold chasubles. The one who disappeared 
                  had been more plainly vested, in a white hooded alb like the 
                  two acolytes. After communion, the altar party processed to 
                  a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary, spectacularly bedecked 
                  in a ring of white and purple/blue flowers, and recited a solemn 
                  act of dedication involving incense and holy water. They remained 
                  there while the choir sang the Ave Maria. It was all 
                  very formal, but not stiff. Reverent. 
                   
Exactly how long was the sermon? 
13 minutes.
  
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher? 
8  Dean Hall started with some jokey material about London churches, which lightened things up, and then launched into the sermon proper in a serious tone. He used notes, but used them well and it didn't detract, though I might have given him a higher score if he'd done it as well without.
  
In a nutshell, what was the sermon
about? 
                  Being the feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, 
                  it was naturally about Mary. Dean Hall spoke briefly about the 
                  Annunciation, specifically about paintings of it, and linked 
                  this to the gospel reading (Luke 1:46-55 – The song of Mary). 
                  I was expecting the predictable lecture about the virtue of 
                  obedience, so I was delighted when he veered off and talked 
                  about how Marian worship is justified in the gospel of St John. 
                  First, at the wedding in Cana, Mary persuades Jesus to take 
                  action, ignoring his protests that his time had not come. Does 
                  she not still intercede for us directly with her son? Secondly, 
                  at the foot of the cross, Jesus puts his mother and the beloved 
                  disciple into each other's care. We are all encouraged to be 
                  that disciple. Mary has maternal care over us. 
                   
Which part of the service was like being in
heaven? 
                  The music was lovely. The choir was excellent and the congregation 
                  was lusty. I mean, we sang lustily. Father Gillean's voice as 
                  he chanted the eucharistic prayer was also very moving. So, 
                  the musical parts! 
                   
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? 
                  Well, call me cynical, but all those young families who attend 
                  on Sundays... where were they? There was not one child in the 
                  place. And the congregation was predominantly white – just a 
                  few grains of pepper in the salt. This does not reflect the 
                  cosmopolitan neighbourhood. Father Gillean was expressively, 
                  explicitly welcoming, but is his flock as warm as the shepherd? 
                  And where were all the little lambs? 
                   
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost? 
                  At the end, Father Gillean announced that everyone was invited 
                  to stay for refreshments in the school hall. Clergy were stationed 
                  by all the doors, shaking hands and repeating the invitation. 
                  So I went across. But then, nobody spoke to me. When I got brave 
                  and walked up to people, they were nice enough. But it was a 
                  bit awkward. It might be quite different on a Sunday morning. 
                  However, this was a party and people were talking to their friends. 
                   
How would you describe the after-service
coffee? 
It was a spread of home-made goodies, mostly, and glasses of wine. Very nice indeed.
  
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 
9  I can't afford to live anywhere near there, so travel issues mean that my attendance could only ever be occasional.
  
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian? 
Yes, I was very glad I went. Sophisticated prayer.
  
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? 
I think the sermon will stay with me for a while. And the memory of all the gold mosaic of the reredos, glittering in the dim church. | 
             
           
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