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                | 1972: Holy 
                  Trinity Cathedral, Auckland, New Zealand |  
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                | Mystery Worshipper: 
                  Cantate Domino. The church: 
                  Holy 
                  Trinity Cathedral, Auckland, New Zealand.
 Denomination: 
                  Anglican Church in Aotearoa, New Zealand and Polynesia, Diocese 
                  of Auckland.
 The building: 
                  : It is a true oddity. The brick east end and transepts are 
                  very austere versions of England's Guildford 
                  Cathedral (itself hardly an opulent building). The design 
                  is the result of an early-20th century competition, the execution 
                  of which was then scuppered by the outbreak of World War II. 
                  The design was reduced in size by 50 per cent and lost its planned 
                  tower. Even then the diocese couldn't afford to finish the nave. 
                  It wasn't until 1994 that a nave was built, totally modern in 
                  design and vaguely based on Polynesian architecture with very 
                  flamboyant stained glass. The building thus looks like the bastard 
                  child of Guildford Cathedral and a tent. Were the Anglican Communion 
                  to hold a competition for the weirdest cathedral, this one would 
                  surely win.
 The church: 
                  It runs the typical range of Anglican cathedral services with 
                  morning prayer, eucharists, Prayer Book choral evensong, and 
                  weekly services. Some of these feature choirs of boys, girls 
                  and men. Within the cathedral is the Marsden Chapel (where this 
                  evening's service was held) in memory of Samuel 
                  Marsden, known in Australia as the flogging parson, but 
                  who has a more positive reputation in New Zealand as the nation's 
                  apostle, for it was he who conducted the first Christian service 
                  on New Zealand soil. The cathedral is currently looking for 
                  a new dean and the diocese has just gained a new bishop.
 The neighbourhood: 
                  Auckland, New Zealand's largest commercial centre, lies on the 
                  North Island on a narrow isthmus. Thus, the city has two harbours 
                  on separate major bodies of water. It straddles a volcanic field 
                  whose volcanoes (all extinct, although the field itself is merely 
                  dormant) consist of cones (mostly quarried away), lakes, lagoons, 
                  islands and depressions. The city enjoys a mild climate. The 
                  cathedral is on the edge of the 
                  Auckland Domain, a large park, and is some way from the 
                  centre of Auckland. Nearby is the huge War Memorial Museum (a 
                  vastly more impressive building than the cathedral), the Winter 
                  Garden and Fernery, and many trendy shops and restaurants in 
                  the gentrified streets.
 The cast: 
                  The Revd Deacon Sarah Stevens.
 The date & time: 
                  11 April 2010, 5.00pm.
 
 What was the name of the service?
 Compline.
 
 How full was the building?
 The small Marsden Chapel was full with 22 people, six of whom 
                  made up this Mystery Worshipper's party! I fear that without 
                  us the crowd would have seemed a bit more sparse. There was, 
                  however, even in this small group a range of ages and ethnicities.
 
 Did anyone welcome you personally?
 We were given the cathedral newsletter by a sideswoman and found 
                  our own seats.
 
 Was your pew comfortable?
 Fine, just a plain bench.
 
 How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
 Delightful, as I could hear the cicadas chirping outside. The 
                  inside was totally quiet and the light in the chapel was dim.
 
 What were the exact opening words of the
service?
 "Welcome to Night Prayer."
 
 What books did the congregation use during the
service?
 The New Zealand Prayer Book. Some of the service was 
                  read out in the Maori language.
 
 What musical instruments were played?
 None. The cathedral has a mighty organ, but this was a said 
                  service.
 
 
  
 Did anything distract you?
 I distracted myself. I'd not seen the New Zealand Prayer 
                  Book before, and at times when I should have been paying 
                  more attention, I was leafing through it, reading its preface 
                  and comparing to the Prayer Book for Australia. Had 
                  I looked around the cathedral before the service rather than 
                  after, I couldn’t have but been distracted by the most hideous 
                  cathedral furnishings I've ever seen (and I've been to Chichester 
                  Cathedral). Hanging from the nave ceiling is a large red orchid-like 
                  object, a big, bulbous round thing that can be lowered or raised 
                  to assist with acoustics in the nave. So useful, but repulsive.
 
 Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
 Traditional, restrained cathedral worship. The deacon was vested 
                  in cassock, surplice and scarf. There were no genuflections 
                  and, apart from standing and sitting at the appropriate moments, 
                  no real ceremony at all.
 
 Exactly how long was the sermon?
 No sermon.
 
 Which part of the service 
                  was like being in heaven?
 Deacon Stevens was clearly profoundly religious. The service 
                  was conducted with a great intensity, but it was a quiet intensity 
                  that drew one in. I was greatly impressed by the strength of 
                  her faith and the joy in this faith that she communicated to 
                  us. She clearly has pure thoughts every minute of the day.
 
 And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
 It was hard to be in the other place with so religious an officiant. 
                  However, looking around, one constantly saw a compromised architectural 
                  scheme, the failure of the church to build with faith and vision, 
                  and the truly vulgar components of the failed design. There 
                  is also a glaring error in one of the stained glass windows. 
                  "Ego sum" (as in "I am the resurrection and the life") ended 
                  up as "Ergo sum" (as in "I think, therefore I am"). 
                  The nearby University of Auckland has a classics department, 
                  and I was told that the cathedral regularly receives complaints 
                  about this gaffe from good Latinists. However, my proposed solution 
                  of bringing in an iconoclastic mob to smash the offending window 
                  was rejected by other worshippers.
 
 What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
 Along with my entourage, I went off to explore the cathedral 
                  and marvel at its weirdness. We were especially amused by the 
                  joyously tasteless conjunction of the gothic crossing with the 
                  modern nave, where no attempt has been made to harmonise the 
                  two halves of the building.
 
 How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
 Nothing so tedious as coffee. The exceptionally kind deacon 
                  offered to show us the historic St 
                  Mary's Church, which is in the cathedral precinct (having 
                  been moved there in 1892 from across the road and rotated 90 
                  degrees!). That church is as beautiful as the cathedral is peculiar. 
                  It is a 19th century church built with ancient and very aromatic 
                  timbers. The deacon kindly switched on the lights and found 
                  some pamphlets on the church and its windows.
 
 How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
 10  I could easily close my eyes against the fey decor 
                  and immerse myself in the spirituality of the worship.
 
 Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
 Yes, and especially glad to be an Anglican. Worshipping in the 
                  company of my party of friends and colleagues also added to 
                  the pleasure of the occasion.
 
 What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
 A truly bizarre cathedral but an extremely spiritual officiant.
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