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| 1924: The Temple
Church, London |
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Mystery Worshipper:
Sinterklaas.
The church:
The Temple
Church, London.
Denomination:
Church of England. The Temple Church is a Royal Peculiar.
The building:
A late 12th century church built by the Knights Templar as their
headquarters. The nave is round and was based on the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Undamaged by the Great Fire
of London in 1666, the church was nevertheless extensively renovated
by Christopher Wren in the 17th century and again in the 19th
century. It was heavily damaged during World War II but was
restored, with many of Wren's alterations that had been placed
in storage brought out again. The church is simply stunning!
There is a long quire with round gathering space at the west
end, where today's service took place, and lots of medieval
style glass. There are several grotesques – unusual to
see them inside – featuring silly human faces and a goat
in an academic cap. There are also 10 effigies of Knights Templar
lying on their backs in a variety of poses. It was once thought
that these were tombs, but no bodies were ever discovered.
The church:
Shakespeare knew this church and included it in a scene in Henry
VI, Part One. The church also figures prominently in Dan
Brown's controversial novel The Da Vinci Code. In 1608,
two of the four Inns of Court were granted use of the church
in perpetuity. To this day it is still the main chapel for those
who work in the Temple area. It also functions as an Anglican
parish church, with regular worship services and choir performances.
Very law community, very establishment.
The neighbourhood:
The Temple Church is located between Fleet Street and the River
Thames, within the area known as the Temple. Barristers' chambers
and solicitors' offices can be found everywhere, as well as
some notable legal institutions.
The cast:
The Revd Robin Griffin-Jones, Master of the Temple.
The date & time:
Monday, March 29, 2010, 5.45pm.
What was the name of the service?
Choral Evensong.
How full was the building?
Some 75 people, many tourists and mostly elderly.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
A verger smiled as he handed me the books.
Was your pew comfortable?
Most of us sat on the stone ledges in the round, but there were
folding chairs available in the centre as well. It was surprisingly
comfortable.
How would you describe the pre-service
atmosphere?
Quiet, serene. The organist played a quiet Brahms piece and
the choir did a rendering of Victoria's O vos omnes.
What were the exact opening words of the
service?
We sang hymn 300, "Be Thou My Guardian," from Hymns
Ancient and Modern, Revised.
What books did the congregation use during the
service?
1662 Book of Common Prayer.
What musical instruments were played?
Organ and portativ.
Did anything distract you?
There was one tourist with a very noisy camera who wasn't embarrassed
about using it!
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
Very middle Anglican, not high, no signs of the cross or bowing,
but very formal. Much chanting. There were lots of collects:
for the Queen, for lawyers, etc.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
No sermon.
Which part of the service
was like being in heaven?
The men's voices sang Tallis' Trisagion with a warm,
pure sound and acoustic.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
The language of the prayers was so arcane that it made me smile and then feel sad that this is what visitors think Anglican worship is like.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
A friendly lady passed out Holy Week service notices. Some of
us loitered about the quire but no one tried to herd us out.
It was all very relaxed.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
The Master of the Temple took time to shake hands with each
person at the door.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
5 – I think I would appreciate the music if today's offering
were indicative of their regular fare. Also, I understand that
the Master is a preacher of note.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Yes, I felt glad to be in a long line of tradition. I do wish, though,
that the prayers were more direct in addressing the needs of
the world and those gathered, rather than just law people. Yet
this is, after all, the chapel of the Temple community.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The vivid stained glass. |
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| The Mystery Pilgrim |
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| One of our most seasoned reporters makes the Camino pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read here. |
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